The A to Z of delectable Italian cheeses.

A quick glance at the menu in your typical Italian restaurant will reveal the names of a few familiar cheeses – mozzarella, parmigiana, ricotta, etc. – that may seem, at first impression, to be the sum total of palatable Italian cheeses out there.

But we all know we can’t go on first impressions alone. There is actually a rich tradition of Italian cheeses that produces a vast number of excellent but little-known cheesy treats sure to please even the most discerning palate.

So let’s examine some of these relatively obscure – but delectable – cheeses (along with some cheeses you’re probably familiar with) from the romantic country of Italy (a name, by the way, that is derived from “Víteliú,” a Greek word that means “land of young cattle.”)

Things to keep in mind: A cheese’s taste is strongly affected by the milk it’s derived from (cow’s, sheep’s, etc.). Texture, consistency and color are also important in the world of gourmet appreciation of Italian cheeses. The place where a cheese is made is also also can be significant (example: farm cows that munch on grass and hay in one region produce a different-tasting milk than those from another area due to soil, environment and other factors), as can be the season the cheese is produced in (example: Summer cheese is usually more flavorful since the animals feed on fresh grass rather than dry hay).
OK, let’s get into some cheese!

Asiago

A firm cheese made from cow’s milk, Asiago can be aged for up to a year. While it’s a mild-tasting cheese, Asiago’s known for its pungent odor and light color. It’s great for shredding and can be served with pasta, risotto or soups.
It’s also excellent sliced thin and served on top of a warm, crunchy baguette.

Bel Paese

This creamy, mild white cheese comes from cow’s milk is a more recent creation than some of the more traditional Italian cheeses described here. It comes from Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. Similar to French Port Salut cheese, Bel Paese can be used as a replacement for mozzarella in recipes calling for that old standard.

Fontina

Fontina refers to one of Italy’s oldest cheeses. The color of straw, Fontina (which has many popular varieties such as Fontina Val d’Aosta) has small holes and a slightly nutty taste with a trace of mild honey. When you melt it, it takes on a more earthy character, giving a hint of mushrooms and acidity. A main ingredient of fonduta, Italy’s version of fondue, Fontina is often used in its home country as a dessert cheese. Taking about three months to ripen, Fontina is not recommended to the extremely health-conscious, as it has 45-percent fat content!

Gorgonzola

An Italian blue cheese, firm-yet-creamy Gorgonzola comes in a variety of forms - from mild Gorgonzola Dolce to sharp Gorgonzola - depending on how aged it is. Gorgonzola is great in dips and on your salad.

Grana Padano

An old-school unpasteurized hard cheese, Grana Padano has a very thick, tough yet smooth rind, while its yellow, pale insides are typically crumbly and grainy. It’s actually a form of what we know as Parmesan. Grana Padano has a sweet, fruity taste, giving off a trace of pineapple. The cheese is known for holding up well in freezing, and ripens in 12 to 19 months time.

Mascarpone

Hailing from the Lombardy region of northern Italy, Mascarpone seems like a soft, white, cream cheese – but it’s not. It’s actually a result of adding a culture (tartaric acid, a natural vegetable derivative from the seeds of tamarind trees) to the cream skimmed off milk used to make Parmesan. Mascarpone is called a curd cheese, but it’s created in a process similar to that used to make yogurt. When the tartaric acid is added, the cream is heated and thickens. The end result has a compact texture but can be used as a spread. It’s also a popular ingredient in many Italian desserts, and is used in some sauces and dishes. It ripens in a few days, but healthy eaters should pass on this one, with its 75-percent fat content.

Mozzarella

A staple of American dining, Mozzarella is a delicious and versatile cheese, as good melted on a pizza as it is served cold with tomato, basil and olive oil. It’s traditionally made in the southern part of Italy from water buffalo milk, although it’s common these days to make it from cow’s milk. A popular form of this cheese is a soft block or shredded version that is more elastic than true fresh Italian-made Mozzarella. For those craving a more exotic spin on this classic, seek out fresh Mozzarella packaged in salty water in specialty shops.

Parmesan

One of the most popular cheeses in the world, Parmesan is named for the northern Italian town of Parma, and making it is a long, arduous process. It’s created by heating and curdling milk in copper containers, and then separating and taking out most of the cream. Next, the curd is cut and heated to 125 degrees as the curd is stirred. The curd is reheated at temperatures approaching 131 degrees and then pressed into molds lined with cheesecloth. After two days of drying, the cheese is removed and then salted in brine for one month’s time. It’s frequently aged for up to two years in humid settings.

Parmigiano Reggiano

A hard, unpasteurized cheese derived from skimmed cow’s milk, Parmigiano Reggiano is sold in a drum shape. It has a hard, sticky, yellow-to-orange-colored rind, and it’s big; usually weighing in around 75 pounds, a drum of Parmigiano Reggiano requires a saw to cut through it. It has a fruity, sweet scent and taste, giving off hints of pineapple. Mostly used for grating, this cheese is an excellent topping for soups, salads, pasta, chicken or veal. Going to Italy? You can buy this on the streets in big, grainy chunks chiseled out of the huge drums. Legend has it that due to its high cost, Parmigiano Reggiano has been stolen at gunpoint when its trucks were hijacked by thieves.

Pecorino

Pecorino is actually a blanket term that refers to all Italianmade cheeses that come from sheep’s milk. Beyond that, there are local variations: Pecorino is sheep’s milk cheese from Rome, Pecornio Sardo comes from Sardinia, and Pecorino Siciliano is from Sicily.

Ricotta

This familiar whey cheese can be made from either cow’s or sheep’s milk. It’s easily recognizable from its texture – wet but not sticky, firm but not solid, and made up of moist, delicate grains. Ricotta is probably best known as a key ingredient in lasagna and manicotti. There are three main types of Ricotta: Ricotta Salata (ewe’s milk whey), Ricotta Piemontese (cow’s milk whey plus 10-percent milk), and Ricotta Romana (a byproduct from the production of Romano cheese). Interesting fact: Ricotta’s name comes from the Italian word for “re-cooked.”

Romano

One of the oldest Italian cheeses still going, Romano is derived from a unique process known as “rummaging curd,” which refers to draining curd quickly after the cheese is molded, and then piercing its surfaces before salt is put on. This delectable classic ranks better on the health scale than some of its brethren, as it has a 27 percent fat content and is 32 percent water.

Bring It Home!

Sound good? Even if you can’t get to Italy to pick up some samples, it’s easier than it may seem to have fresh, authentic Italian cheese in your home. Many cities have Italian markets that carry a wide range of imported Italian cheeses, and you may be able to find a good variety at specialty stores such as WholeFoods or Trader Joe’s.

Of course, you can buy almost anything online these days, and Italian cheese is no exception to that rule. There are a number of Web sites where you can order authentic Italian cheeses, including:

Www.italianfoodimports.com
www.idealcheese.com
www.igourmet.com
www.almagourmet.com
www.gourmetfoodstore.com
www.murrayscheese.com
So, why not bring home some delectable Italian cheese, a good wine, and have a tasting party with friends? Buon Appetito!